Cafe Morannedd / Dylans Criccieth

Can you pinpoint the beginning of your journey into the realm of architecture? My journey began quite serendipitously amid the carefree days of my youth. As a teenager, I was blessed with the opportunity to be taken under the wing of my best friend Nick’s parents. They frequently whisked us away from the humdrum of suburban school life, to their enchanting holiday cottage in the village of Pentrefelin, nestled in the heart of Gwynedd, North Wales. Long weekends and often a week or more during the summer school holidays, these escapes were pure bliss, allowing us to dive headfirst into the natural splendour of the region.

Our escapades frequently led us to Black Rock Sands, known locally as Morfa Bychan, where the endless golden dunes seemed to stretch indefinitely. The freedom of youth was ours to seize, and we thrived in it.

Not far from our snug retreat lay the delightful town of Criccieth. Despite its quaint size, this town is rich with history and culture, having produced a British Prime Minister and boasting an impressive Grade I listed 13th-century castle that proudly stands against the Welsh skyline. Another town gem was Cadwaladers Ice Cream parlour, a cherished institution where vanilla was the only flavour. However, you could enhance a cone with sprinkles or a chocolate flake. This simple yet flawless flavour continues to be my favourite, conjuring fond memories of those youthful escapes.

On days when the Welsh weather turned cold, or when a more mature indulgence beckoned, we would retreat to the comforting confines of the Morannedd Cafe. This was the early 1980s, well before the modern-day coffee culture had taken hold, and our choices were limited to a cup of tea or a deliciously warm milky coffee. The cafe was a modest refuge, furnished with simple tables and chairs, and offering a selection of children’s gifts like fishing nets, colourful kites, cheap footballs that you’d never see again if the coastal winds caught hold, and polystyrene aeroplanes.

At that young age, I was blissfully ignorant of the deterioration that had overtaken the building. Yet, its gradually fading facade, unknowingly at that time began fuelling my interest in architecture. The building had been designed by none other than Clough Williams-Ellis, the celebrated Welsh architect perhaps best known for creating Portmeirion. His vision for Caffi Morannedd, conceived in 1948, embodied the elegance of the Art Deco style, even though the building itself was not completed until 1954.

The cafe's history added to its mystical allure. It was owned by the legendary Sir Billy Butlin, a magnate in the holiday park industry, and was a beloved destination for his guests. Patrons were transported from his nearby holiday camp in Pwllheli to Criccieth for enchanting tea dances. Even in its faded grandeur, the cafe's unique charm was unmistakable, and I was fascinated by the stories of those who might have roamed its space in years gone by.

As time passed, the building continued its decline, seemingly fated to vanish into oblivion until a glimmer of hope emerged in 2015. The restaurant chain Dylans embarked on a mission to revive the storied walls of Caffi Morannedd. As a tribute to its original architect, they added an entrance porch that Williams-Ellis had envisioned but couldn’t realise due to budgetary constraints. Although plans for a rooftop terrace offering sweeping views towards Harlech didn’t materialise, the cafe remains an impressive sight, enduring the test of time.

Today, Caffi Morannedd stands as a Grade II listed building, a testament to its architectural and historical importance. Its fresh hues continue to catch the sunlight, creating a dazzling display even as it weathers the often harsh Welsh climate. Though a fresh coat of paint may soon be warranted after a decade of standing resilient, my affection for this architectural marvel has only deepened over time. When I visited last week, camera in hand, I found myself once again enthralled by its timeless allure. In the realm of architectural photography, few buildings hold as special a place in my heart as this one, which perfectly encapsulates the essence of my youthful adventures and the genesis of my enduring passion for architecture and architectural photography.