Neil Shelby Long

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Photographing Epic - The Matterhorn

Visiting Matterhorn Glacier Paradise at 3883m

If you saw my last blog post HERE, you’ll know that my visit to France and Switzerland coincided with a mini Spring heatwave, with temperatures around 24˚C or just over 75F.

My next location would see me enjoying temperatures a lot lower. At 3883m or over 12700ft, Matterhorn Glacier Paradise in the spring would hover around -5˚C to -15˚C before windchill.

Tasch Railway Terminal and Parking Garage

I based myself in the village of Tasch, the last village you can drive to before the train-only journey into Zermatt. If you’re doing a day trip to Zermatt there’s a large parking garage at the train station. It’s easy to get your train tickets online via the Omio app. PDF tickets are emailed to you, then use your phone to scan through the barriers. Trains run every 15 - 20 minutes depending on the time of day.

There are no cars allowed in Zermatt so once you arrive in the centre you’ll either have to walk to your destination or hail one of the little electric taxis you’ll see trundling around.

What’s in Zermatt you may ask… during the winter, it’s the playground of the wealthy who love to ski, see and be seen. Skiing is a year-round activity from Zermatt as there is continual snow coverage at the top of the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise, Klein Matterhorn, Breithorn etc. The shops and restaurants can be eye-wateringly expensive, but if you hunt around, there are a few small independent cafes that are superb.

During the summer and part of autumn, Zermatt is a draw for hikers and mountain bikers who use the cable cars to get to various stations to begin their treks throughout the alpine range.

As mentioned, Zermatt is where you catch the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise cable cars. There are other stations on the way up, but if you want to experience the highest point, you’ll need a ticket for Matterhorn Glacier Paradise. It’s not cheap, but it’s 100% worth it for the views and to experience altitudes that normal mortals like myself rarely get to experience.

Matterhorn Glacier Paradise sits at 3883m or over 12700ft and it’s how someone like me, with less than ideal mobility and in no way shape or form a climber, can reach heights that some climbers train for months or years to achieve.

Breathtaking? Literally. At 3883m, the air really is thinner at this altitude. Also, if it’s bright, remember sunscreen, especially if you plan on staying on the viewing platform for a while. Whilst having coffee in the cafe at the top, I decided to do a little science experiment. By using my Polar smartwatch, I could see what change the altitude had on my blood oxygen levels. At sea level, my normal blood oxygen readings would be around 95 - 96%. My reading at Matterhorn Glacier Paradise was 85% !!!

If you are moderately experienced at hiking/climbing with ropes, by hiring a local guide and starting from Matterhorn Glacier Paradise it’s the easiest way to attain a 4000m peak. You can walk to the summit of the Breithorn in about two and a half hours.

From the Klein Matterhorn viewing platform, you get a good view of the south face of the Matterhorn, which is slightly different from the views in the more habitable areas around Zermatt. If like me however, you’re unlucky enough to get a persistent cloud cover over the Matterhorn, well you won’t see much at all. But that’s mother nature for you, she cares not one jot for a photographer's desires.

I managed a couple of shots of the Breithorn when I got a clear break in the rolling clouds. It was interesting to overhear a gentleman behind me as I was taking photos saying to his friend that he couldn’t understand people trying to take pictures that day, as it would just be white snow against white clouds, it’s just a waste of time. I should post about the difference between taking a photo and making an image. What do you think? Leave a comment below if you’d be interested in that. As you can see, I saw much more detail than just white on white. And as I was processing my image, I noticed some people on their way to summit the Breithorn.

The following day, although the clouds were less, the winds were stronger, so they weren’t running the cable cars to the top. I decided to drive to a viewpoint I’d found high in the nearby mountains that promised a view of the Matterhorn.

Driving up the winding single-track road into the mountains was both exhilarating and mildly terrifying at the same time. Small boulders in the road reminded me that the warning signs for falling rocks were a reality in the Alps. Luckily my car has a high ground clearance, so it navigated small obstacles without concern.

Any tensions from the drive up the track were dispelled as soon as I got my first glimpse of The Matterhorn in her full glory.

Rounding a tight bend and emerging from tree cover, she began to reveal herself from the valley to my right. If you’ve seen my video HERE, you’ll know the reaction it caused. I don’t think I’ve seen something so majestic reveal itself in my life.

I drove as far as the road would take me, which at this time of year was the snow line. Skiers were finishing their runs just across from where I managed to park the car.

I’m not sure I’ve ever brewed a coffee in a more majestic setting. Mountains rising all around me and as I sat at the back of my car, the Matterhorn was right in front of me nestled between the valleys surrounding Zermatt.

If you like any of my Matterhorn images, check out my gallery store HERE

The Matterhorn