North to South - Pt5

Welcome back to my tour around the coast of Wales. If you missed part 4, you can catch it here.

Caernarfon

The old walled Royal town of Caernarfon is built up around the unmissable feature that is Caernarfon Castle. Built by King Edward I, the castle was intended as a royal residence and a symbol of his dominance over the Welsh. It’s remarkably well preserved and for a fee, you can go in and around the castle. If you enjoy a view, head up to the battlements for a stunning vista across Eryri (Snowdonia) and across the Menai Strait to Anglesey.

The castle was also the location for the investiture of Prince Charles in 1969. Now King, Charles’ ceremony took part within the walls of Caernarfon Castle, bestowing upon him the title Prince of Wales.

Built around the same time as the castle, the town walls were constructed to create a defence for protection during times of conflict. Today, you can do a walking tour of the town and the walls are an integral part of the tour.

I truly recommend a visit to Caernarfon for a while. Walk around its old streets and indulge in some lovely food at one of its independent cafes. If you’re not the designated driver, you can call into Bar Bach on Greengate Street, the smallest pub in Wales.

Criccieth & Porthmadog

Now if you wanted, from Caernarfon you could follow the small coastal roads around the peninsular and call into the small villages of Trefor, Nefyn, Aberdaron, and the wealthy playground of Abersoch. And if you enjoy an unrestricted view of the stars, this peninsular is the place to be. All within the Llyn Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, the farthest reaches of this area are recognised as dark sky reserves. 

But, I’m bypassing these for now and following the A487 to the small but perfectly formed towns of Criccieth, then Porthmadog.

Criccieth and Porthmadog will always hold a special place in my heart. From approximately the age of 13, I’ve been visiting these little seaside bolt holes. My best friend at school (and to this day) had his grandparents living there. During the summer holidays, I’d be invited to stay with him and his family at the small cottage which was attached to his grandparents’ house. As we got older, we’d be dropped off there for the holidays with our bikes and be left to get on with enjoying ourselves, exploring the area on two wheels. Older still and we’d drive up ourselves and go camping near the beach with our then girlfriends. Eventually, my girlfriend became my wife and we bought a small cottage of our own and spend as much time as possible there. So you see why these places are so special to me.

But why should you visit?

Criccieth Castle. This time not built by our old friend Edward I, but instead built by Llywelyn the Great in the 1230s. However, in around 1283 that rascal Edward I took control of the castle, extending it and adding height to the two towers.

Criccieth is also known for its great family beaches. The beaches look out into Tremadog Bay and if you’re lucky, you may spot porpoises, dolphins and seals all on the hunt for some mackerel or bait fish that swim through the bay. While you’re enjoying the regularly mild climate of the area, why not treat yourself to an ice cream from Cadwaladers? Criccieth is the original home of Cadwaladers ice cream. Established in 1927, Cadwaladers is still there on Castle Street and has now expanded to many other locations around Wales. It’s a great place to call in for lunch too and their seating area has a lovely elevated view of the bay.

At the bottom of Castle Street & Lon Felin, just around the corner from the RNLI building, you’ll find Swn Y Mor restaurant and Blue China cafe. Both are run by my friend Mark and his family. If you want hearty fresh food and drinks, this is the place to visit. From their sun terrace, you can enjoy the bay while eating a hearty breakfast or lunch. If you’ve got room, try one of their famously huge cream tea scones.

A short drive south and we’re in the town of Porthmadog. This small harbour town was once a giant in the worldwide supply of slate from many of the quarries within the area. These days it’s only pleasure boats that line the quay where once mighty Brigs, Schooners and yachts loaded their wares for destinations around the globe. Along with today’s boats, during the summer, you’ll also see armies of children crabbing with lines and clear buckets sitting on the harbour wall. Some still to catch the wily quarry and some with the magic touch and buckets alive with crustaceans.

Porthmadog is home to not one, but two historic railways. One end of the town, near the harbour, is home to the Ffestiniog Railway, one of the oldest narrow gauge railways in the world. Where once it may have transported slate from the quarries into port, now it will take you on a scenic steam ride through the North Welsh countryside. At the other end of town, you’ll find the Welsh Highland Heritage Railway. This is the train that will take you up and around to Caernarfon.

If you’re after an extremely family-friendly, vehicle-accessible beach, turn at the crossroads in the centre of Porthmadog and aim for Black Rock Sands (Morfa Bychan). Off-season, you can drive onto the two-mile stretch of sand for free, but in high season there is an entrance fee (In 2023 it’s £6 for a car).

On the edge of Porthmadog, you can find the village of Tremadog. Apart from having an award-winning fish and chip shop, ‘Chippy Dre’, Tremadog is also the birthplace of T.E. Lawrence, better known as Lawrence of Arabia, and a plaque can be found on his old home, now known as Snowdon Lodge.

Portmeirion

Leaving Porthmadog along The Cob, with the Ffestiniog Railway running above you, you’ll come to the village of Minffordd. Turn right here and you’ll end up in the picturesque, mysterious, bizarre, beautiful and curious, Portmeirion.

Dreamt and built by renowned architect Sir Clough Williams-Ellis over 48 years, Portmeirion is an Italianate village perched on the hillside overlooking the Afon Dwyryd estuary. With colourful buildings, ornate facades, and charming piazzas, Sir Clough Williams-Ellis aimed for and achieved, a Mediterranean-inspired village in the middle of North Wales.

Due to Portmeirion’s striking looks and location, the cult 1960s TV series, The Prisoner, was filmed there. To this day, fans of the show flock to the village to pay homage to the almost unchanged location of their favourite show. As you pass through one of the entrance arches, keep an eye out for the bronze bust of the show’s creator and star, Patrick McGoohan, or Number 6 if you prefer. Now, if you haven’t seen The Prisoner, I’d say give it a watch… preferably with a glass or two of something alcoholic. It may help. It may not. You’ll probably be confused by it either way, so may as well be merry while you try.

Once we’ve sobered up / realised it was just a TV show and not some acid trip, we’ll head onward and further around the coast of Wales.

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